The complete guide to The North Coast 500

Things to do in Caithness and Sutherland

Next stop – Caithness and Sutherland. Now don’t let anyone tell you the northeast coast of Scotland is boring. Ok, it might not have white sands beaches and fjord-like sea lochs of the west coast but it is beautiful and full of lots of fantastic hidden gems. Here is what to do on the Caithness section of the North Coast 500.

• Timespan Museum, Helmsdale – learn all about the Highland Clearances which happened in Caithness.
• Berriedale Brae viewpoint (A9 north of Helmsdale) – The Berriedale Brae is an incredibly steep hairpin bend. This is one of the most challenging sections of the North Coast 500. There is a viewpoint if you want to stop.
• Waligoe Harbour – climb down 250 metres to the tiny Waligoe Harbour. Watch out for the weather – descending the 250 steps into sea haar can feel very spooky indeed.
• Hill O Many Stanes –  Wonder just why 200 wee stones were placed in rows up to 4000 years ago. 
• The Castle of Old Wick – perched on dramatic cliffs, the Castle of Old Wick one of Scotland’s oldest castles. 
• Caithness Brochs – No one knows what Brochs were really used for, just that there are lots of them. There are over 200 brochs (Iron Age structures) across Caithness.
• Buchollie Castle – access is across a walkway with sheer 100m drops on each side – don’t try and visit in bad weather! Built by Sweyn Asliefson the notorious pirate and robber in about 1140 and later remodelled by the Mowat Family until 1661.
• Castle Sinclair Girnigoe – near Wick is a spectacular ruin.
• Duncansby Head Lighthouse and stacks – a lot more attractive than John O’Groats. Take a walk to Duncansby’s huge sea stacks.
• John O’Groats – the most northerly village in the UK – take the photo of the sign – it is a must!
• Read more: things to do in Caithness

Things to do Lochinver & Assynt

Leaving the north coast of Scotland behind you reach Assynt and Coigach, one of my favourite parts of Scotland, and the most dramatic part of the North Coast 500 and the Scotland Route 66. Assynt is famous for its mountains – and Lochinver for its pies!

• Take a RIB to Handa Island – one of Scotland’s most beautiful islands and a nationally important wildlife reserve, Hand Island is home to Puffins, rare Bonxies, stunning views of the Assynt mountains. A visit to the island is by boat (£15 cash only) and takes around 4 hours (10 mins on the ferry, and to walk around the island). There is also a seafood restaurant at Tarbert from where you catch the ferry.
• Drive over the Kylesku Bridge – a famous photo stop on the NC500, the Kylesku Hotel is nearby serving up great seafood.
• Drive the Drumbeg Loop to Achmelvich and Clachtoll Beaches – two beautiful beaches well worth an afternoon detour.
• Ardvreck Castle – Sitting on the banks of Loch Assynt sits the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, once the 15th-century stronghold of Clan MacLeod, longtime owners of the Isle of Skye and the Isle of Lewis and Harris.

More things to do Lochinver & Assynt

• Lochinver Larder – cafe and takeaway famous for their pies.
• The Knockan Crag – a site of special scientific interest famous for the Highland’s Controversy – a long-running argument between geologists about the age of the rocks here. There is a visitor centre for those interested to find out just why the debate over Knockan Crag was so bitter and a walking trail for those just wishing to take in the incredible views. Explore Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve.
• Stac Pollaidh – one of Scotland’s best hill walks, with a well-made path to the summit, easy and fun scrambling over its pinnacles and ridges and incredible views over the Assynt mountains.
• Suilven – At 731m Suilven might be considered a wee hill in Scotland (Ben Nevis is nearly twice its height) but once seen, Suilven (pronounced Sool-ven) is a hill never to be forgotten – it is one of Scotland’s most iconic mountains. 
• Corrieshalloch Gorge – through which the River Droma falls through a series of waterfalls, including the huge 45 m Falls of Measach. Don’t be scared!
• Ullapool – a great wee town for an overnight stop on the NC500. Discover more things to do in Ullapool
• Inverewe Garden and Estate at Poolewe– one of Scotland’s most beautiful gardens. Inverewe House has recently been opened to the public for the first time in its history and gives visitors a snapshot of 1930s life in a Scottish estate. Visit Inverewe.
• Whale Cruise – Take a Hebridean Whale Cruise to spot otters, seabirds and even dolphins and sharks in the waters off Gairloch.
• Big Sands and Red Point Beach –  views across to Raasay and Skye.

More things to do in Lochinver & Assynt
How to cimb Stac Pollaidh / How to climb Suilven
More things to do in Ullapool

Things to do Wester Ross and Applecross

With over 3000 square miles of soaring mountains and atmospheric glens, ancient Caledonian forest and wild beaches set against a backdrop of fjord-like lochs; Wester Ross is one of the world’s most spectacular regions and probably the most beautiful part of the famous North Coast 500. Here is what to do in Wester Ross.

• Visit the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve – explore the woodlands, home to 350-year-old Scots Pines remnant of the ancient Caledonian forest. Beinn Eighe is a Unesco Biosphere, covering 500,000ha meters of protected landscape.
• Torridon Countryside Centre – low-level walks and visit the Torridon Countryside Centre.
• Sands Beach – voted by Countryfile readers as the Beach of the Year in 2015/16. It is one of my favourite places in Scotland and a gorgeous 10km walk from the village on the Peninsula.
• Applecross Penisula – To get here, you either need to brave the famous Bealach Na Ba pass or the winding coast road from the neighbouring village of Shieldaig – both of which require nerves of steel from those not used to Scotland’s dramatic west coast roads.  For those who do make it, the peninsula is as blissful as it gets – the view across the Inner Sound to Raasay and Skye is mesmerising.
• Bealach na Ba Viewpoint – drive this famous pass across the Applecross Peninsula. The road is utterly incredible, and definitely not for the faint of heart.
• Attadale Gardens – where, in the late 19th century a plant collector started a garden on the Attadale Estate, importing rhododendrons from all over the world. Visit Attadale Gardens.
• Glen Docherty – detour along the A832 for stunning views to Loch Maree.
• Strome Castle – stop on Loch Carron to discover one of the National Trust for Scotland’s little gems.
• Plockton –  where the mild, warm and wet climate allows palm trees to prosper on the waterfront, and home to two great pubs!

Ready to go?

• Download my north coast 500 map to your smartphone.
• Find more epic road trips you might want to drive!

North Coast 500 FAQs

How long is the North Coast 500?

516-miles (830 km)

Is the North Coast 500 the Scotland Route 66?

The NC500 is often described as Scotland’s route 66 – because it is one of the world’s most epic road trips. However, there are some differences. Route 66 crosses eight states over 2400 miles from Chicago to California. The NC500 miles is a lot shorter at just over 500 miles and takes you through some of the most beautiful bits of Scotland.

How long does it take to drive the route?

How long you take driving the NC500 is up to you. If you just want to experience one of the world’s best roads you could just about manage it in a day – but then you’ll miss everything the route has to offer.

Why not take longer to visit huge sea caves, sail to a tropical island to see puffins, or bag Scotland’s most northerly Munro … there is so much to see and do along the route it’s a shame to not do it justice.

If you just want to see the main sights I would suggest you will need a minimum of four days to do the main stages of the NC500, however, I would suggest a week to 10 days to really make the most of your trip.

What’s the best time of year to drive the North Coast 500?

• My favourite time(s) of year in Scotland are April – May and September.
• June and August can be wet months in Scotland.
• July is busy with UK school holidays – particularly campsites on the west and north coasts.
• Most attractions (from the National Trust or Historic Scotland) close from October to Easter. Many of the grounds are still open.
• There is always a risk of snow in winter months inland from the coasts.

…but what about ticks and midges in Scotland?

Whenever you drive the route, Scotland’s NC500 will take you on an incredible road trip around Scotland you won’t ever forget…

Travelling in summer in Scotland means midgie – a tiny biting black fly – they are legendary for a reason. You can’t avoid them, but you can beat them – pick up the best insect repellent for the Scottish midge – ‘Smidge’. Sadly, midgies are worst in the early evening – just as you want to sit out on the lochside with that sundowner drink…

You also need to watch out for ticks in Scotland. These beasties sometimes carry lyme disease, so wear long trousers if you are hiking and always check yourself out. If you want to avoid beasties, the best time to travel in Scotland is spring, autumn and winter.

Should I drive the Scotland Route 66 clockwise or anti-clockwise?

I would suggest going anti-clockwise. Start at Inverness Castle and travel first up the East coast to John o’Groats, across to Durness, down to Gairloch and finally Applecross taking in some of Scotland’s most spectacular coastal scenery along the way.

Alternatively, you could start your trip with a drive through Glencoe and visiting the famous Eilean Donan Castle before joining the route clockwise on the west coast at Strathcarron.

3g mobile phone signal on the NC500

It is an issue, I admit. Most of the route does not have a signal, let alone 4g, so be prepared. However, wifi is very common in hotels and b&bs so you will be able to keep up with the outside world along the way. Using google maps? Use wifi to download sections of your map each day.

Driving in Scotland

Most of the NC500 route is on single-track roads – and you will be driving the route along with sports cars, campervans, motorbikes, cyclists, tractors, delivery drivers, sheep, coos and deer.

Here are a few tips for driving in Scotland:

• KEEP LEFT  – or you will cause an accident
• Know the speed limits, road signs and general driving advice – in Scotland, understand how to drive on a single track road!
• Learn how to use passing places on the single track road – always pull to your left into the passing space and be prepared to reverse
• Acknowledge your fellow drivers – a wave, a thank you or let someone past
• Remember the route is not just for you to enjoy your holiday – people use the roads as part of their daily life, so let people past.
• I recommend that your stops are no more than 1-1.5 hours apart unless much of the journey is on a motorway or you know the rules of the road. 2 hours on mountain roads will exhaust even the most patient of drivers.

Motorhomes and camper vans

The NC500 is suitable for motorhomes and camper vans although you will need to be prepared for the single track roads. The Bealach Na Ba is the only section not recommended for anything larger than a 16 – 18 ft camper and the Berriedale Brae is a very steep hairpin bend.

If you have never driven a campervan before I suggest doing the route anti-clockwise as you will be coming down the Bealach Na Ba rather than up it.

Petrol stations on the North Coast 500

There are plenty of petrol stations on the route. I suggest filling up regularly as the NC500 is quite remote in places. Petrol stations are marked on my NC500 map.

Love, from Scotland x