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How to visit: Spectacular Sutherland

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How to visit: Spectacular Sutherland

Stretching from the wilds of the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean in north west Scotland is the spectacular region of Sutherland.

From Dornoch in the east to Lochinver in the West, and as far as Cape Wrath to the tip of Ben Hope, Scotland’s most northerly Munro, Sutherland takes in some of Scotland’s most dramatic coastal scenery – and is part of the famous North Coast 500.

Here’s my guide to visiting Sutherland, Scotland.

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Achmelvich Beach Sutherland

If you are short on time – the top 10 things to do in Sutherland

  • Visit Dunrobin Castle – a gorgeous stately home just outside Golspie, Dunrobin Castle has lovely gardens – with the designs copied from Versailles and designed by Sir Charles Barry who was a popular architect, having designed the Palace of Westminster, home to the UK Parliament. The castle looks like it just fell out of a fairy tale!
  • Try the Sutherland whisky distilleries – Sutherland is home to three whisky distilleries. Glenmorangie is one of Scotland’s most famous brands, and there is a visitor centre just outside Tain. Other distilleries include Balblair Distillery, which has one of the oldest archive records of whisky in distilling, and the recently upgraded Clynelish Distillery who make most of the whisky for Johnnie Walker Gold and their own very nice 14 year old malt.
  • Visit the Flow Country – a very rare type of peatland, the Flow Country is an UNSECO World Heritage Site and the most extensive blanket bog system in the world. Made up of a series of 400,000 hectares of peat bogs and pools, the bog has been growing for more than 10,000 years.
  • Drive the far North Coast of Scotland – from Melvich to Durness, the north coast of Scotland is miles and miles of beaches and single track roads – stunning. With views to Orkney, sea caves and spectacular sea lochs, the northern coast of Sutherland is not to be missed in a rush to see the west coast.
  • Take a RIB to Handa Island – one of Scotland’s most beautiful islands and a nationally important wildlife reserve, Hand Island is home to Puffins, rare Bonxies, and stunning views of the Assynt mountains.
  • Climb Stac Pollaidh – one of Scotland’s best hill walks, Stac Pollaidh has with a well-made path to the summit, easy and fun scrambling over its pinnacles and ridges and incredible views over the Assynt mountains. Or try hiking Suilven (pronounced Sool-ven), a hill once seen is never to be forgotten – it is one of Scotland’s most iconic mountains. 
  • Drive the Drumbeg Loop otherwise known as the Wee Mad Road to the fabulous Achmelvich and Clachtoll Beaches – two beautiful beaches with white sands and turquoise waters.
  • Explore the controversy of the Knockan Crag – a site of special scientific interest famous for the Highland’s Controversy – a long-running argument between geologists about the age of the rocks here. There is a visitor centre for those interested to find out just why the debate over Knockan Crag was so bitter and a walking trail for those just wishing to take in the incredible views.
  • Visit Loch Assynt and Ardvreck Castle – Sitting on the banks of Loch Assynt sits the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, once the 15th-century stronghold of Clan MacLeod, longtime owners of the Isle of Skye and the Isle of Lewis and Harris. Above the castle towers the mighty Quinag – one of the best hills to climb in Assynt.
  • Enjoy a night in Ullapool – this port and harbour town is a great place to stay in Sutherland, Ullapool sits on the shores of beautiful Loch Broom, beneath the 9 munros of the Fannich mountains. Grab a drink at one of the waterfront bars and watch the boats come and go to the Outer Hebrides.

Got longer? Here is how to plan a visit to Sutherland

Sutherland forms a major part of the North Coast 500 road trip, it is a fantastic destination in its own right. With a stunning coastline and fabulous beaches, Sutherland is the most north westerly part of the UK.

Sutherland things to do Map

Looking for a Sutherland Map? Check out my guide to things to do in Sutherland Map. A fabulous old map of the region can be found here.

The need to know before you visit 

  • Sutherland gets its name from the Norsemen who called the region Suðrland (“southern land”) – being south of Viking held Orkney and Caithness. The region is also called Cataibh – land of the Cat Tribe – alongside its neighbour Caithness. 
  • Sutherland’s county town might be Dornoch in the south east, but the region stretches across from the east to the west coasts, with the farthest north point of the region, Cape Wrath, is also the most north westerly point in Scotland. 
  • Sutherland is made up of the Province of Strathnaver or Dùthaich MhicAoidh otherwise known as MacAoidh or Clan Mackay’s country which straddles the coast to the north, to the south and east is Clan Sutherland land and to the west, is the mountainous Assynt (Asainte). 
  • Sutherland has a turbulent history, even before the infamous Highland Clearances. The Strathnaver lands to the north were hotly contested from the 1500s by the Sutherlands to the south and Mackay’s in the north, with the stronger clan Sutherland eventually purchasing the land from the Mackays in 1892.
  • The family seat of Clan Sutherland is Dunrobin Castle – a stately home near Golspie. The Castle is thought to have been named after Robert Sutherland, the 6th Earl. The Castle was remodelled between 1835 and 1850 by Sir Charles Barry in the Scottish Baronial style. Charles Barry was a popular architect at the time, having designed the Palace of Westminster, home to the UK Parliament.
Dunrobin Castle Sutherland - picture taken from the garden looking at the castle with its turrets. The garden has lots of levels and trees.
Dunrobin Castle, Golspie

How to get to Sutherland

By car – most visitors these days to Sutherland will be driving the North Coast 500, but it is worth getting off the main roads and exploring the interior of this vast region. Inverness to Wick is around 2.5-3 hours drive. Inverness to Ullapool is 1.5 hours.

By train – the Far North Line takes you across Sutherland to Thurso and Wick. It is one of the best scenic rail journeys in Scotland with fabulous views of the coast and Flow Country, including a stop at Foisinard.

Towns and villages – where to stay in Sutherland

The main towns in Sutherland are Dornoch and Ullapool with lots of hamlets, harbours and villages to discover: 

Sutherland’s county town – Dornoch

Dornoch is a pretty Victorian seaside town, home to the famous Royal Dornoch Golf Course, a championship links course with incredible views over the Dornoch Forth. The town itself has a lovely bookshop, lots of clothes and craft shops, a great butcher and lovely coffee and lunches served at Milk and Honey. 

There is also a 19th century jail now operating as a gift shop, Historylinks – Dornoch’s museum and a cathedral. Dornoch also has a fabulous beach – just the other side of the golf course – see if you can spot Dunrobin Castle from the shore! More information on visiting Dornoch. Here is where to stay in Dornoch: 

For dinner in Dornoch, head for the Dornoch Castle Whisky Bar & Bistro, for Italian food at Luigi, Greens Restaurant, or Highland Larder, street food cart at Dornoch Beach or Mara Restaurant at Links House.

Golspie and Brora 

A popular stopping point on the North Coast 500 for a visit to the spectacular Dunrobin Castle, the villages of Golspie and Brora are also great places to stay in Sutherland.

Melvich, Bettyhill, Tongue and Durness

On the north coast between Melvich to Bettyhill stay at: The Sheiling B&B, Strathy Bay Pods, Croft House, Armadale Bay, Tir Nan Og, the Farr Bay Inn and Borgie Lodge Hotel.

In Tongue stay at The Old Schoolhouse, The Tongue Hotel and Shepherd Moon. In Durness stay at The Cottage, Durness Youth Hostel.

Ullapool

Lochinver 

Things to do in Sutherland 

Got more time to explore, here is the ultimate list of things to do in Sutherland!

Things to do in Sutherland – east coast

  • See the RSPB Tollie Red Kites and watch the RSPB volunteers feed beautiful Red Kites from the pretty farmsteading at RSPB Tollie. The Kites can also be seen flying over the A9 as you head north. Entry to RSPB Red Tollie is free.
  • Try a dram at Glenmorangie Distillery – famous worldwide, you can take a tour of the distillery – remember no drinking for the designated driver! Other local whisky distilleries include Balblair Distillery, which has one of the oldest archive records of whisky in distilling, and Clynelish Distillery who make most of the whisky for Johnnie Walker Gold. 
  • Climb up to the Fyrish Monument – the view from the Fyrish Monument is well worth the 3-hour round trip walk.
  • Visit Loch Fleet – just fancy a stroll? Walk around Loch Fleet to Little Ferry and explore Balblair Woods. You might spot Ospreys and Crossbills in the trees.
  • Hike the Golspie Big Burn to Ben Bhraggie – At Golspie make sure you visit the beautiful waterfalls at the Big Burn, and if you are feeling energetic there are mountain bike trails on Ben Bhraggie – or you could climb to the top for a view! 
  • Don’t miss Dunrobin Castle – a gorgeous stately home just outside Golspie, Dunrobin Castle has lovely gardens – with the designs copied from Versailles. Dunrobin is a popular spot for Instagrammers – the castle looks like it just fell out of a fairy tale! There are also daily Birds of Prey demonstrations.
The Big Burn at Golspie - a river running through a deep gorge with a bridge crossing it.
Big Burn, Golspie

The North Coast of Sutherland / Strathnaver

  • At the small village of Tongue – visit Castle Varrich for a great view over Kyle and Ben Loyal before crossing the Tongue causeway and bridge, a dramatic bridge over the Kyle of Tongue sea loch.
  • Visit Strathy Point Beach/Strathy Point Lighthouse – a great spot to see dolphins and whales in the summer months.
  • Feeling energetic? Climb Ben Loyal and Ben Hope – the Queen of Scottish Mountains, Ben Loyal is a Corbett with four dramatic peaks to climb. Ben Hope is the most northerly Munro.
  • Banksy in the highlands? The ruined Mhoine House has some amazing graffiti art to photograph.
  • At Ceannabeinne visit a highland clearance site on a short walk with beautiful sea views and a great beach. Above the beach is the the Golden Eagle Zip Line – the most northely zip line – the Golden Eagle Zip Line – the zip line is weather dependent so opening times vary.
Ceannabeinne
  • A popular NC500 stop, Smoo Cave is a huge sea cave near Durness which can be explored by foot or by boat. Smoo Cave is floodlit inside and was formed by both the river inside and the sea outside! The guided tour by boat costs £10.
  • Ard Neikie Lime Kilns and Heilam Lairg viewpoint – there is a stopping point to admire this viewpoint over a double backed beach.
  • At the town of Durness there are beaches, Sango Sands and Balnakeil Beach, and shops, cafe and a petrol station, you can also visit the Balnakeil Craft Village most known for the hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain.
  • The north west point of Scotland, Cape Wrath is accessible by the Cape Wrath Ferry or a very very long hike over rough moorland! Visiting Cape Wrath on the ferry takes around 3 hours.
The Heilam Lairg viewpoint - a double backed beach with a wee house
Heilam Lairg viewpoint

West coast of Sutherland / Assynt

  • It might be an eight-mile walk to Sandwood Bay and back, but boy is the hike worth the trek. This is one of Scotland’s best beaches and has a spectacular sea stack – Am Buchaille.
  • One of my favourite things to do in Sutherland is to take a RIB to Handa Island – one of Scotland’s most beautiful islands and a nationally important wildlife reserve, Hand Island is home to Puffins, rare Bonxies, stunning views of the Assynt mountains. A visit to the island is by boat (£15 cash only) and takes around 4 hours (10 mins on the ferry, and to walk around the island).
  • A famous photo stop on the NC500, the Kylesku Bridge is worth a picture or two. The Kylesku Hotel is nearby serves up great seafood.
  • If you dare – drive the Drumbeg Loop otherwise known as the Wee Mad Road to Achmelvich and Clachtoll Beaches – two beautiful beaches well worth an afternoon detour.
  • Sitting on the banks of Loch Assynt sits the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, once the 15th-century stronghold of Clan MacLeod, longtime owners of the Isle of Skye and the Isle of Lewis and Harris.
  • At Lochinver, pop into the Lochinver Larder a cafe and takeaway famous for their pies.
7 day North Coast 500 itinerary - Ardvreck Castle
  • One of my favourite spots in Assynt is the The Knockan Crag – a site of special scientific interest famous for the Highland’s Controversy – a long-running argument between geologists about the age of the rocks here. There is a visitor centre for those interested to find out just why the debate over Knockan Crag was so bitter and a walking trail for those just wishing to take in the incredible views.
  • Stac Pollaidh is one of Scotland’s best hill walks, with a well-made path to the summit, easy and fun scrambling over its pinnacles and ridges and incredible views over the Assynt mountains.
  • At 731m Suilven might be considered a wee hill in Scotland (Ben Nevis is nearly twice its height) but once seen, Suilven (pronounced Sool-ven) is a hill never to be forgotten – it is one of Scotland’s most iconic mountains. 
  • The River Droma falls through a series of waterfalls at the Corrieshalloch Gorge – through which the including the huge 45m Falls of Measach. Don’t be scared crossing the wobbly bridge!
  • Ullapool is a great wee town for an overnight stop as you explore the west coast of Sutherland. Discover more things to do in Ullapool.
The view from Stac Pallaidh looking over Sutherland / Assynt
Stac Pollaidh

Sutherland – the interior

  • The Wee Hoose at Lairg – sitting on a tiny island in Loch Shin is the wee house, also known as Broons Hoose. There are lots of myths surrounding who built the wee hoose, the reality is a lot more mundane – but it is still one of Sutherland’s gems!
  • Visit the Falls of Shin – next to the waterfalls at the Falls of Shin (famous for leaping Salmon) with a cafe serving tasty food.
  • Explore Black Rock Gorge near Dingwall. This ‘box gorge’ appeared in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire.
  • Explore the Flow Country – a very rare type of peatland, the Flow Country is the most extensive blanket bog system in the world. Made up of a series of 400,000 hectares of peat bogs and pools, the bog has been growing for more than 10,000 years. The Flow Country is World Heritage Site protecting this internationally recognised site. You can visit the RSPB Forsinard Flows Visitor Centre, and walk the Dubh-lochain trail (1 mile) to the Flows Lookout Tower, or the longer Forsinain trail (4 miles).   

With stunning beaches, spectacular views and of course, the North Coast 500, what are you waiting for? Plan a visit to Sutherland!

Love from Scotland x

Kate Hopper

The blogger behind Love from Scotland

Love from Scotland is your guide to how to travel Scotland like a local. My name is Kate and on my site you will find everything you need to plan your perfect trip to Scotland – from destination guides to the best places to stay.

 kate@lovefromscotland.co.uk