With its popularity never seeming to decline, the North Coast 500 (NC500) is again facing a backlash against over-tourism on the route and calls for the marketing of our most famous road trip to be cancelled.
However, the far north is one of our most beautiful but fragile economic regions and we tourists have much to contribute – if we go about our visit in the most responsible and sustainable way.
If you have to drive the North Coast 500, here is how to do it.
Why do we need a slow guide to the North Coast 500?
Launched 10 years ago to promote the beauty of the far north of the Scottish Highlands, the NC500 now attracts thousands of visitors annually, many of whom travel the route in a rush to tick off famous landmarks and instagram famous spots.
Popular spots such as the Bealach Na Ba, the Mad Wee Road at Drumbeg, Ceannabienne Beach and Ardveck Castle are suffering with the demand.
Locals are understandably upset with their quiet single track roads becoming a race track and B&Bs are struggling with single night turnovers, every possible off road parking spot is now home to campervans and the council is struggling to cope with overflowing rubbish.
It doesn’t have to be like this, so what if we did it differently and a) slowed down and b) got off the beaten track instead? Here is how to do it.
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How to explore the North Coast 500 slower
The North Coast 500 was designed as a road trip and that is part of the fun. However, the rush to tick off the hot spots from the east to the west has led to visitors simply just passing through, rather than exploring the route.
The solution – just slow down your road trip route. Instead of 7 days and 6 different stops, limit your stops to 2 or 3 and spend your days exploring a little bit further.
To decide where to stop, here are the main regions on the North Coast 500 from which to make your base:
> Don’t miss Easter Ross and the Black Isle
Just to the north of Inverness, Easter Ross stretches from Dingwall to Tain. From dolphins to distilleries, there is plenty to waylay you on the quiet and unspoilt Black Isle and Easter Ross peninsulas.
Base yourself in one of the pretty towns in Easter Ross, stay in Tain, the Seaboard Villages, or the pretty seaside village of Portmahomack and slow down and stay at: the classic Royal Golf Hotel, Dornoch or the stunning Dornoch Station. Book into the beautiful Balloan House or stay at Albatross B&B Dornoch.
Make sure you don’t miss dolphin watching at Chanonry Point or a visit the world famous Glenmorangie Distillery. Feeling energetic? Climb up to the Fyrish Monument. one of the NC500’s hidden gems. Love history? Easter Ross and the Black Isle are famous for their Pictish monuments, so head on on the Pictish Trail.
> Explore the east coast of Sutherland
Stretching from the wilds of the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean in north west Scotland is the spectacular region of Sutherland. The east coast of Sutherland takes in some of Scotland’s most dramatic coastal scenery.
Base yourself in popular Dornoch, the villages of Golspie or Brora and slow down and stay at: Book into a luxury cabin near Golpsie on the east coast of the North Coast 500 at the Birdwatcher’s Cabin. You can watch ospreys from your deck and walk to the fairy tale Dunrobin Castle along the beach. Read more about the Birdwatchers Cabin.
Why not stay on the Sutherland Estate at Dunrobin Cottages – Porter’s Lodge is the gatehouse to Dunrobin Castle with your own access to the grounds. Instagrammer couples will love the insanely pretty Snowdrop and Bluebell Cottages in the heart of Golspie village.
For a little more space book into Shepherd’s Cottage across the road from the castle at Dunrobin Farm which is both family & dog friendly with an enclosed garden with views of Ben Bhraggie.
Dornoch is a pretty Victorian seaside town, home to the famous Royal Dornoch Golf Course, a championship links course with incredible views over the Dornoch Forth. The town itself has a lovely bookshop, lots of clothes and craft shops and a fabulous beach.
The popular spot to visit is Dunrobin Castle (look out for their new gin), but don’t miss a hike up the Golspie Big Burn to the top of Ben Bhraggie, and visit the Sutherland brochs and beaches. The recently upgraded Clynelish Distillery have a great visitor tour and make most of the whisky for Johnnie Walker Gold and their own very nice 14 year old malt.
> Read my full guide to visiting Sutherland.
> Slow down in Caithness
Reaching John O’Groats is one of the highlights of your NC500 road trip, but there is no need to speed through Caithness. Make your base in Thurso, Wick or Scrabster and discover the north west corner of Scotland.
Stay at Forss House, Thurso – stunning luxury property, Braeside Retreats offers glamping pods. Dunnet B&B Escapes are modern cabin style B&B near Dunnet Head and John O’Groats. The Strathy Inn offers basic Inn accommodation in Caithness with good meals or try the Farr Bay Inn – close to the gorgeous Farr Bay. Natural Retreats – quirky accommodation at John O’Groats
On your way north, it might be popular but don’t miss a visit to Whaligoe Haven Harbour and then go inside 5000 years of history at the Grey Cairns of Camster.
Further west, visit the Flow Country – a very rare type of peatland, the Flow Country is an UNSECO World Heritage Site and the most extensive blanket bog system in the world. Made up of a series of 400,000 hectares of peat bogs and pools, the bog has been growing for more than 10,000 years.
The most northerly tip of the UK is Dunnet Head and Lighthouse where there is an RSPB reserve – the Dunnet Bay Nature Reserve which is worth a short walk. You might even spot puffins! At Dunnet there is also the Dunnet Bay Distillery who make gin and whisky.
Finally you will reach Duncansby Head Lighthouse and stacks – where you can take a walk to Duncansby’s huge sea stacks before visiting John O’Groats – take the photo of the sign – it is a must!
> Read my full guide to visiting Caithness.
> Explore the north and west coasts of Sutherland
Leaving Caithness behind, the NC500 rejoins Sutherland as it heads along the most northern and western corner of Scotland.
Slow down and stay at Dunnet Bay Campsite with its amazing beach, the stunning John o Groats cottage, families will love Achnabat cottage, and Smithy Cottage at Tongue is a personal favourite. Natural Retreats offers quirky accommodation at John O’Groats.
The best hotels along the north coast of the NC500 include the Melvich Hotel, the Farr Bay Inn, the Bettyhill Hotel, the Borgie Lodge Hotel, the Tongue Hotel and Mackay’s Rooms.
In northern Sutherland, visit Castle Varrich for a great view over Kyle and Ben Loyal before crossing the Tongue causeway and bridge, a dramatic bridge over the Kyle of Tongue sea loch. Feeling energetic? Climb Ben Loyal and Ben Hope, Ben Loyal is a Corbett with four dramatic peaks to climb. Ben Hope is the most northerly Munro.
At Further north, visit the Flow Country – a very rare type of peatland, the Flow Country is an UNSECO World Heritage Site and the most extensive blanket bog system in the world. Made up of a series of 400,000 hectares of peat bogs and pools, the bog has been growing for more than 10,000 years.
At Ceannabeinne visit a highland clearance site on a short walk with beautiful sea views and a great beach. Above the beach is the the Golden Eagle Zip Line – the most northely zip line – the Golden Eagle Zip Line – the zip line is weather dependent so opening times vary.
> Read my full guide to visiting Sutherland.
> Get outside on foot in Assynt
With otherworldly mountains and white sand beaches, amazing wildlife and tasty pies, a visit to Assynt is much more than a stop on the North Coast 500.
Slow down and stay at: the Highland Bothies, the amazing Stone Houses. or go for a week at Fisherman’s Cottage, Ullapool a cute 3 bed self-catering cottage or check out Harbour House, for B&B – Westea Ullapool is fabulous, quirky, luxury B&B in Ullapool.
For Hotels – the Arch Inn is on the waterfront, or stay at The Ceilidh Place or The Ferry Boat Inn.
Make your base around Lochinver and go paddleboarding at Achmelvich Beach or Clachtoll beaches – some of the worlds best, solve the long-running argument at Knockan Crag and climb Stac Pollaidh or the mighty Suilven.
Handa Island Wildlife Reserve is worth a visit for the views back over the Lochinver region alone. Despite being protected by all manner of wildlife acronyms (Handa is a SSSI and SPA) you can visit the island by crossing the Sound of Handa by RIB from the tiny hamlet of Tarbet.
> Read my full guide to visiting Lochinver and Assynt.
> Explore the wilds of Wester Ross
With over 3000 square miles of soaring mountains and atmospheric glens, ancient Caledonian forest and wild beaches set against a backdrop of fjord-like lochs; Wester Ross is one of the world’s most spectacular regions.
Slow down and stay at: with 58 acres of parkland, its own herd of highland coos, the Torridon Hotel has the friendliest and most helpful staff (ever!) and a spectacular location on the loch, this is a destination which invites you to check in, and not check back out. An Cois Na Mara Bed & Breakfast is a lovely B&B or try Charleston House, Gairloch.
Make your base in Ullapool, Gairloch, Applecross or the Kyle of Lochalsh and take a Hebridean Whale Cruise, walk the spectacular Corrieshalloch Gorge, visit the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve, and take your time driving the famous and terrifying Bealach Na Bà pass.
> Read my full guide to visiting Wester Ross.
> Read more: my complete guide to the North Coast 500
> A 7 day itinerary for the NC500
> A kids guide to the North Coast 500
> The best beaches on the NC500
It’s time to slow down!
Love from Scotland x